Author: Nandani
Published on-
11 October 2024
Pre-industrial ways for creating textiles
There are hints that suggest weaving existed throughout the Paleolithic era. At Pavlov, Moravia, a faint textile impression has been discovered. Textiles from the Neolithic era have been discovered during excavations of pile houses in Switzerland and El Fayum, an Egyptian site that goes back to roughly 5000 BC.
The European populace was clothed in wool, linen, and leather throughout the Roman era, while silk was an ostentatious luxury brought from China via the Silk Road. In Northern Europe, flax fiber has been used to make textiles since the Neolithic era.
Northern Europe started importing cotton in the late medieval era. People in the area assumed cotton was generated by plant-borne sheep since they didn't know anything about it other than that it was a plant and noticed its resemblance to wool. In a 1350 letter, John Mandeville
declared as true the now absurd legend that there once was a magnificent tree in India that produced small lambs on the tips of its branches.
These branches bowed so that the hungry lambs could eat because they were so flexible." Many European languages still include this element in their names for cotton, such as German Baumwolle, which means "tree wool."Cotton was grown in the warmer parts of Asia and the Americas by the end of the 16th century.
Producing the fiber, processing it, turning it into yarn, turning yarn into cloth, and finally finishing the cloth are the primary processes in the making of cloth. After that, the fabric is delivered to the clothing manufacturer. Depending on the fiber utilized, there are most differences in the preparation of the fibers. Wool needs to be carded and washed, but flax only needs to be treated and dressed. Nonetheless, the techniques of spinning and weaving are remarkably similar between fibers.
From manually twisting the fibers to utilizing a drop spindle and finally a spinning wheel, spinning has evolved.Archaeological sites have yielded spindles, or sections of them; they could be among the earliest examples of technology. By the eleventh century, the Islamic civilization had most certainly devised the spinning wheel.
Revolution Industrial
The Industrial Revolution in the 18th century saw the mass production of yarn and cloth become a mainstream business, which gave rise to the woven fabric segment of the textile industry.
John Kay created the flying shuttle in 1734 in Bury, Lancashire. It was the first of several inventions connected to the cotton woven fabric industry.
A single weaver at a loom could produce cotton cloth at a faster pace and wider width thanks to the flying shuttle. Even though the increased rate of production created a greater demand for spun cotton, worker resistance to the technology's perceived danger to jobs prevented its broad deployment.
The Duke of Bridgewater's canal opened in 1761, linking Manchester with the Worse coal fields, while Matthew Boulton inaugurated the Soho Foundry engineering operations in Handsworth, Birmingham, in 1762. The more effective Watt steam engine, which employed a separate condenser, was commercially produced in 1775 as a consequence of his collaboration with Scottish engineer James Watt. James Hargreaves is credited with creating the spinning jenny in 1764, which increased a single worker's ability to produce spun thread by an initial eight times and then by a significant amount after that. Some people attribute Thomas Highs' creation. Hargreaves was forced to leave Blackburn due to industrial unrest and his inability to patent the innovation until 1770, but his failure to do so meant that others were able to profit from the idea. By the time of his death, more than 20,000 spinning jennies were in operation as a result. The world's first water-powered cotton mill, Thorp Mill, was built in Royton, Lancashire, in 1764 and was used for carding cotton. The mechanization of the spinning and weaving processes led to the proliferation of cotton mills in the North West region of England.
The invention of the stocking frame for silk in 1589 was made feasible in 1759 by Jedediah Strutt, who added an attachment for the frame that resulted in the knit and purl stitch known as the Derby Rib. This made it possible to produce silk stockings and then cotton ones. Thomas Frost's square net was created in 1781 as a result of Hammond's modification of the stocking frame in 1768 to weave weft-knitted openworks or nets by crossing over the loops with a moveable tickler bar. Although cotton was too coarse for lace, Houldsworths of Manchester began manufacturing dependable 300 count cotton thread in 1805.
A mechanized woven cloth textile business could be established thanks to the Cartwright Loom, the Spinning Mule, and the Boulton & Watt steam engine. From this point on, technological advancements persisted as the mill owner worked to lower costs and raise quality instead of new ideas. Improvements made to the transportation system, such as the canals and the railroads after 1831, made it easier to import raw materials and export finished clothing.
Initially, steam-driven water pumps were used to augment water power in mills, but eventually, steam engines took over entirely. For instance, Samuel Greg worked for his uncle's textile merchant business. After assuming control of it in 1782, he looked for a location to build a mill.In Styal, Cheshire, Quarry Bank Mill was constructed by the Bollin River. It was first propelled by a water wheel, but in 1810 steam engines were added. Built in 1784 and used until 1959, Quarry Bank Mill in Cheshire is still in service today as a well-preserved museum. It also shows how the proprietors of the mill took advantage of child labor by using orphans from Manchester, a nearby city, to work the cotton. It demonstrates that these kids had a place to live, clothes to wear, food to eat, and some education.
Secondly, Richard Roberts created the Roberts Loom in 1830, the first loom with a cast iron frame, by exploiting a patent from 1822. The Lancashire Loom, created in 1842 by William Kenworthy and James Bullough, is a semi automatic power loom that requires stopping in order to recharge empty shuttles while being self-acting. For a century, it served as the cornerstone of the Lancashire cotton industry until the Northrop Loom, which was developed in 1894 and has an automated weft replenishment function, took over.
Thirdly, the first self-acting mule was patented in 1830 by Richard Roberts. The Star bridge Mule Spinners Strike of 1824 sparked investigation into the challenge of providing force to the mule's winding stroke. The industrial revolution altered society and the nature of employment. Steam power, iron forging, and textile manufacture were the three main forces behind these developments. Manchester, along with the smaller towns in the Pennies and southern Lancashire, served as the geographic center for textile manufacturing in Britain.
Following the peak of English textile output in 1926, several of the abandoned looms and mules were purchased and reinstalled in India when the mills were shut down.
Textile factories were the first places where women entered the labor in the 19th century, and the industrial and garment assembly work completed at this time "[provided a] point for participation by rural women in the formal economy."
When women started working and earning money for themselves, the belief was that their earnings should “supplement the family income rather than provide it,” which was usually provided by the husband or father who provided the majority of the family's revenue. Women's employment in the textile industry was widely seen as a "secondary occupation," with women's primary responsibilities being taking care of their families and raising their children. The recruiting procedure for female textile workers served as an example of this socially acceptable custom, with businesses favoring "hiring women who were young and unmarried: most machine operatives were between the ages of 16 and 25." This had an impact on the pay of female textile workers as well because there was a "belief that women did not merit or require wages as high as those of men" and a perception that a woman's job in the textile industry was one to complement the family.
The textile industry had significant transformations in the 20th century as a result of ongoing technological advancements in technology, synthetic fiber, logistics, and commercial globalization. The industry's long-dominant business model was about to undergo a significant transformation. Chemical companies produced new synthetic fibers with superior qualities for a variety of uses, such as rayon, which was invented in 1910, and DuPont's nylon, which was invented in 1935 as a less expensive substitute for silk and used in products like military parachutes and tooth brushes. Cotton and wool producers were not the only sources of fibers.
Over the course of the 20th century, the range of synthetic fibers utilized to manufacture fiber increased steadily. The computer was created in the 1920s, using metal, acetate, and modern arcrylic,In the 1950s, acrylic, polyester, and spandex were introduced; metal fibers and saran were invented. In the clothing industry, polyester took off, and by the late 1970s, polyester was selling for more money in the US than cotton.
By the late 1980s, industrial and home furnishings combined accounted for a bigger share of the fiber industry, with garments no longer being the major market for these products. During the 1970s and 1980s in the United States, industry integration and global manufacturing caused a large number of local businesses to permanently close; during that time, 95% of the looms in North Carolina, South Carolina, and Georgia closed, and several industries in Alabama and Virginia also closed.
Conclusion: A Tapestry of Time
The textile industry, a cornerstone of human civilization, has woven a rich and intricate tapestry throughout history. From the earliest hand-spun fabrics of ancient civilizations to the mechanized looms of the Industrial Revolution and the digital innovations of today, the textile industry has continuously evolved, adapting to changing societal needs and technological advancements.
Throughout its journey, the textile industry has played a pivotal role in shaping economies, cultures, and lifestyles. It has provided employment, fueled trade, and influenced fashion trends. While facing challenges such as globalization, sustainability concerns, and automation, the industry has demonstrated resilience and adaptability, embracing new materials, production methods, and market opportunities.
As we look to the future, the textile industry is poised to continue its evolution, driven by innovation, sustainability, and consumer demands. The integration of technology, the development of eco-friendly materials, and the emphasis on ethical production practices will shape the industry's trajectory.
In conclusion, the history of the textile industry is a testament to human ingenuity, creativity, and resourcefulness. It is a story of growth, transformation, and enduring relevance. As we weave the next chapter of this industry's history, let us strive for a future where textiles continue to be a source of beauty, comfort, and economic prosperity.
